March
- Finish cutting what was left from fall
- Test soil
April
- Gradually remove winter protection
- Weed, mulch, and edge (to prevent rot, be careful not to mulch over crowns)
- Thin and divide plants
- Plant bare root plants
- Prepare stakes and cages
May
- Weed
- Time for planting – water newly-planted plants thoroughly
- Finish mulching not completed in April
- Pinch plants back or thin out
- Stake
- Fertilize as per soil test when establishing new beds or planting new plants
June
- Weed and water as necessary
- Scout for pests
- Pinch, deadhead and cut back
- Stake
July
- Weed and water as necessary
- Scout for pests
- Fertilize heavy feeders such as ever-blooming daylilies and mums
- Deadhead (stop pinching mums in mid-July)
August
- Weed and water as necessary
- Deadhead
September
- Edge beds
- Weed and water as necessary
- Move and divide plants
- Good time for fall planting of trees and shrubs
October/November
- Cutback as personal preferences dictate
- Mulch – to prevent rot, be careful not to mulch over crowns
- Winterize after first frost
General Perennial Care
Most perennials benefit from lifting and dividing every three to four years. However, some perennials resent being disturbed and are better off being propagated by cuttings or seed. When dividing plants, rejuvenating the soil by incorporating organic matter such as leaf mold or compost is important.
Watering
Soak the plants immediately after planting and check regularly to prevent drying out. The rule of thumb is to add one inch of water per week for established plants. Less frequent but deep watering encourages perennials to root deeply. Perennials that are said to tolerate drought are drought tolerant only after they have become established. The addition of mulch will help to reduce the need for frequent watering.
Fertilization
Most perennials do not need much fertilizer. Many overfertilized perennials will produce excessive soft growth and produce very few flowers. A soil test will help to determine the amount of fertilizer needed. Fertilizers with a formulation of 10-10-10 or 5-10-5 are sufficient, unless a soil test indicates otherwise.
Staking
Some plants, such as delphiniums, hollyhocks, and peonies, need staking to prevent flopping over in the garden. Plants with heavy flower heads or long thin stems tend to blow over or are beaten down by heavy rains. Staking should be done early in the spring to allow the plants to grow through and around the stakes, usually hiding the stake by midseason.
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